Friday, December 30, 2016

BLOG News and Tips for use...

Chronology:
The blog entries are in reverse chronological order (most recent at the top), primarily because I haven't figured out a reasonable way to re-order them..   So if you start at the bottom entry, and work your way to the top, you can read about the trip in the sequence it happened...  If it makes any difference!
You may jump to the bottom (earliest) entry here.    Then click on "newer posts" at the bottom of each page to move forward in time...
Enjoy!

Trip Photos
I took over 1,000 photos on the trip, (all from my cell phone, which I tell you so that you can manage your expectations about quality, though some of them are quite good).
All my photos are on the web, and I have sent a link to these photos to all the travelers on the trip. I haven't linked to them here, out of some concern about your privacy.  Since my photos are very informal, I didn't want to assume it would be OK to make them available to readers of this blog. If you want access to them, I suggest you contact one of the travelers you know, or myself, and ask for the link.

Additional BLOG Pages added, 21July2013
I have created some new web pages within this blog, to help organize the growing body of material in a more useful manner (at least, that's my intent!):
  • Added Terri Easley's China reading list
  • Moved my posts about the Kansas City Dragon Boat Races, with the crew from Xian competing to a separate new blog page
  • Added a page containing new links that I found of interest.  Silk Road news (or history), and some other items.
You can find these pages under headings near the top of this blog's pages.  Just click on the one you want.  Click on HOME to get back to the trip blog.  Write me if you get lost...

Wednesday, January 6, 2016

Xinjiang Seethes Under Chinese Crackdown - The New York Times

Xinjiang Seethes Under Chinese Crackdown - The New York Times:

KASHGAR, China — Families sundered by a wave of detentions. Mosques barred from broadcasting the call to prayer. Restrictions on the movements of laborers that have wreaked havoc on local agriculture. And a battery of ever more intrusive ways to monitor the communications of citizens for possible threats to public security.

A recent 10-day journey across the Xinjiang region in the far west of China revealed a society seething with anger and trepidation as the government, alarmed by a slow-boil insurgency that has claimed hundreds of lives, has introduced unprecedented measures aimed at shaping the behavior and beliefs of China’s 10 million Uighurs, a Turkic-speaking Muslim minority that considers this region its homeland.....

Sunday, October 18, 2015

1,000 Years of Art at the Edge of the Gobi Desert - The New York Times

1,000 Years of Art at the Edge of the Gobi Desert - The New York Times:

Sharon and I visited Dunhuang and the Mogao caves during our 2013 Silk Road tour.  How fortunate we were.

Dunhuang is also where we road the camels on the dunes.

Monday, June 29, 2015

Deadly Clash Between Police and Ethnic Uighurs Reported in Xinjiang Region of China - The New York Times

Deadly Clash Between Police and Ethnic Uighurs Reported in Xinjiang Region of China - The New York Times:

HONG KONG — More than a dozen people were killed in the Xinjiang region of far western China this week in a clash between ethnic Uighursand the police, according to a report by Radio Free Asia that was largely corroborated by local residents, including a police officer.


'via Blog this'

Monday, December 29, 2014

China Invests in Region Rich in Oil, Coal and Also Strife (NY Times 20Dec2014)

Link to article

"KARAMAY, China — In a desolate park on the city outskirts here, oil bubbling from the ground fills small pools next to a wooden walkway. By one pool is a statue of a bearded ethnic Uighur man sitting on a donkey, playing a lute.

The symbolism is telling. China is ramping up energy production here, turning the northwestern Xinjiang region into a national hub for oil, gas and coal, while the increasingly marginalized Uighur people are memorialized in what appears to be a bronze homage to a romantic past...."


The article also links to a nice video from the region (Northern Xinjiang).





Monday, October 20, 2014

Court Sentences 12 to Die for Xinjiang Mayhem - NYTimes.com

Court Sentences 12 to Die for Xinjiang Mayhem - NYTimes.com:



From the Times:

"BEIJING — A Chinese court has sentenced 12 people to death for their roles in a clash in Xinjiang this summer that claimed nearly 100 lives, state media reported on Monday. The clash, in the far west region of China, was one of its deadliest episodes of ethnic violence.

According to Xinhua, the official news service, a court in Xinjiang’s Silk Road city of Kashgar found the defendants guilty of “terrorist attacks” during a rampage in July that killed 37 people in nearby Shache County, which is known as Yarkand among the region’s ethnic Uighurs...."

Thursday, October 9, 2014

Decoding Etiquette in China, Handshakes to Meals - NYTimes.com

Decoding Etiquette in China, Handshakes to Meals - NYTimes.com:
'via Blog this'  9Oct2014

Excerpt (which certainly reminds me of my visit):

"Any tips for mealtime?
You must try everything, even if something looks aggressively weird. To refuse anything is a loss of face to the host. What happens inevitably is that you’re seated at a round table — there are few rectangular tables in China because in the middle of the table, no matter how posh the circumstances, is what we call a Lazy Susan — and as the food arrives, the host moves it in a clockwise motion toward you, and he will serve himself last. All at the table know to save for the guest the last bites of the most coveted food. If you were a little boy bent on torturing your little sister, you could not come up with some of these possibilities — not in your wildest imagination. My favorite example was a penis of a deer in leek bulbs. Best thing to do is not to ask what you’re eating.

Also, if you do not drink or have a low resistance, as I do — I mean, I’m a very cheap date — you must indicate that immediately, even stretch the truth and say you have a medical condition, otherwise you’re in for the long haul. They are promiscuous toasters."

My trip leader, a native Chinese, when asked what an item of food was, usually answered like this:
"Remember, Chinese eat anything that flies except airplanes, and anything with four legs except tables."  So we learned to just try things, and decide then whether to eat more or not.  And often, we never knew what it was that we ate.

Monday, October 6, 2014

Once a Draw, Restive Region (Xinjiang) in China Suffers After Unrest - NYTimes.com

Once a Draw, Restive Region in China Suffers After Unrest - NYTimes.com:
'via Blog this'  6Oct2014

This news (and the earlier posts about the Xinjiang violence) makes me glad that I got to see a bit of this region, and Urumqi, in 2013, before things degraded as they have.

Our tour bus was boarded only once by military, on the highway to Urumqi, in Eastern Xinjiang province, but they quickly departed when they saw that we were all American tourists.  We did see lots of evidence of military activity, including the construction of new bases out in what appeared to me to be desert.

Monday, May 26, 2014

Terrorist attack kills dozens in China's tense Xinjiang region - CNN.com

Terrorist attack kills dozens in China's tense Xinjiang region - CNN.com:

 "Hong Kong (CNN) -- A series of explosions tore through an open-air market in the capital of the volatile western Chinese region of Xinjiang on Thursday, killing dozens of people and wounding many more, state media reported.
China's Ministry of Public Security said the attack in the heavily policed city of Urumqi was "a serious violent terrorist incident" and vowed to crack down on its perpetrators. President Xi Jinping called for the terrorists behind it to be "severely" punished.
Two SUVs slammed into shoppers gathered at the market in Urumqi at 7:50 a.m. Thursday, and explosives were flung out of the vehicles, China's official news agency Xinhua said."

There is a video available at the web site.

Monday, May 12, 2014

A Devotion to Language Proves Risky - NYTimes.com

A Devotion to Language Proves Risky - NYTimes.com:

"BEIJING — A poet, linguist and globe-trotting polyglot, Abduweli Ayup had a passion for the spoken word, notably Uighur, the Turkic language spoken in his homeland in China’s far northwest. In 2011, soon after finishing his graduate studies in the United States, Mr. Ayup returned home to open a chain of “mother tongue” schools in Xinjiang, the vast Central Asian region whose forced marriage to the Han Chinese heartland has become increasingly tumultuous.

But in a country where language is politically fraught, Mr. Ayup’s devotion to Uighur may have proved his undoing..."

'via Blog this'  12May2014

Monday, March 10, 2014

China Remodels an Ancient Silk Road City, and an Ethnic Rift Widens (Kashgar, Xinjiang Province)

China Remodels an Ancient Silk Road City, and an Ethnic Rift Widens
from NY Times, 5 March 2014, by Dan Levin

Our guide in Urumqi was from Kashgar, and he had left there after the Afghan and Pakistan borders were closed post 11 Sept 2001 (911).  He had been working in international trade until the border was closed.  Kashgar is about 1,500 KM (900 miles) south and west of Urumqi.

Click here to read the article

Excerpt:

"The Chinese authorities set out five years ago to modernize Kashgar’s fabled Old City district while promising to preserve its dense Casbah-like charms. But the results underscore the growing divide between the government and the ethnic minority that lives here — the Uighurs, a Muslim, Turkic-speaking people who have chafed at Beijing’s rule since Communist troops took over their traditional homeland in 1949. The region, in China’s far west, is now known as Xinjiang, a Mandarin term meaning “new frontier.”

The official narrative of the modernization project justified tearing down 65,000 homes and resettling 220,000 Uighur residents as crucial to improving their lives. “Houses in the Old City of Kashgar are mostly old and dilapidated, extremely vulnerable to earthquakes and fire,” said a 2010 report by Xinhua, the state news agency, that was widely republished in the Chinese government-controlled media. “The renovation of the Old City zone in Kashgar is a project that complied with the wishes of the people,” the report claimed."

Saturday, March 8, 2014

Xian, China Travel article, NY Times, 7 Feb 2014

NY Times on Xian, China, 7 Feb 2014

Nice article from NY Times travel section.
Includes several photos of the city, including many spots we visited.

Monday, January 27, 2014

NY Times, 23Jan2014: 3 Dead in Clash at Police Station in Western China, Report Says

3 Dead in Clash at Police Station in Western China
NY Times, 23Jan2014 by Andrew Jacobs

"BEIJING — Three ethnic Uighurs were shot and killed last week outside a police station in China’s far west Xinjiang region during a fight with security guards who blocked them from entering the building, Radio Free Asia reported Thursday.

The shootings, which took place on Jan. 15 in Aksu Prefecture but were only confirmed on Wednesday, are the latest in a spate of deadly skirmishes involving the region’s Uighur residents and Chinese authorities.

Such confrontations have been occurring with increasing frequency in the past year, alarming Chinese leaders and prompting even heavier security in a vast energy-rich region that borders several Central Asian nations. Last week, Beijing announced that it was doubling Xinjiang’s public security budget, with one regional official vowing “no mercy for terrorists,” according to the state news media..."

Full article here: http://nyti.ms/19QSDmq

NY Times, 25Jan2014: China Accuses Uighur Intellectual of Separatism for His Advocacy Work


China Accuses Uighur Intellectual of Separatism for His Advocacy Work
from the NY Times, 25Jan2014, by Andrew Jacobs

"BEIJING — In an ominous sign of the fate awaiting one of China’s best-known Uighur intellectuals, security officials in the far western region of Xinjiang issued a statement on Saturday that accused him of separatism and inciting ethnic hatred.

The statement provides the first concrete indication that the scholar, Ilham Tohti, an economics professor in Beijing, could face a long prison term for his advocacy on behalf of Uighurs, the Turkic-speaking Muslim minority whose uneasy coexistence with the Chinese authorities has grown increasingly violent."

Full article here:  http://nyti.ms/1f0KauJ

Thursday, October 10, 2013

Ethnic Suppression in Western China?

This is a helpful piece to gain understanding of this issue.  NY Times, 10 Oct 2013

Ethnic Suppression in Western China?

Uighurs in China Say Bias Is Growing
The Uighurs, a Muslim people who make up the largest ethnic group in the Xinjiang region, complain of barriers to employment and the free exercise of religion.

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Over News of Clash, a Shroud of Silence in Xinjiang (NY Times 2Sept2013)

Over News of Clash, a Shroud of Silence in Xinjiang (NY Times 2Sept2013)

From the Times: "State media reports have claimed that no one died in a confrontation between protesters and armed police officers in late June in western China, but numerous sources say the death toll may exceed 100"

The Silk Road China tour traveled in this Muslim region (Xinjiang Province) of China.  I saw no unusual military presence (no more than you would see in a major US city).  Our bus was stopped and boarded by military troops on the highway into the province, but after quickly determining we weren't Muslims, they left us to travel on. (The stop reminded me of the US Border Patrol stops I've experienced in south Texas and south Arizona.)  This article makes me think I wasn't observant enough.  It was also clear that our Muslim guide used great discretion in what he shared with us.


Saturday, August 31, 2013

The essential guide to backpacking China's Silk Road (from Lonely Planet travel web site)

I just couldn't resist posting this piece, even though I can't really imagine backpacking the Silk Road.

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/asia/travel-tips-and-articles/77807

You'll see many sites familiar to those of us who traveled on our own Silk Road trip that I have attempted to document in this blog: Xian, the Mingsha Dunes outside Dunjuang (the Singing Sand dunes), the Turpan grape valley, the Flaming Mountains and Mogao Caves, Tian Chi or Heavenly Lake, etc.
The essential guide to backpacking China's Silk Road

Monday, August 19, 2013

‘Dunhuang’: ‘Buddhist Art at the Gateway of the Silk Road’

‘Dunhuang’: ‘Buddhist Art at the Gateway of the Silk Road’

Mogao Caves mentioned prominently, which we visited.
The article describes Dunhuang as a "far western" city, but it felt to me like we went much farther west as we traveled on to Urumqi!

Monday, August 12, 2013

Ten forces forging China’s future (McKinsey Quarterly)

McKinsey Consulting Report on China: China's Next Chapter

In this executive briefing, read highlights and takeaways from the 2013 McKinsey Quarterly special edition on China.

July 2013

In early June 2013, several hundred of the world’s leading CEOs gathered in Chengdu, China, and discussed that country’s rapidly evolving business environment: growth is slowing and wages are climbing just as a new upper middle class emerges, a new wave of innovation rises, and a new generation of leaders steps to the fore. Executives at this year’s Fortune Global Forum, in Chengdu, were reading “China’s next chapter,” a special edition of McKinsey Quarterly, now available in digital form. What follows here is a snapshot of highlights and takeaways: ten critical issues that will be facing China during the years ahead and what they mean for you. Read it on its own. Or follow the links to delve deeper on individual topics.

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Hutong Neighborhoods, from the NY Times July, 2013

Published July 29, 2013
13th-Century Alleyways and a Modern Plague of Illegal Renovations
Beijing is losing many of its hutongs, the traditional Chinese alleyways that date to the 13th century, and gaining a bevy of illegal, outsize construction in their places.
This piece also wrestles with economic diversity and privilege.


Published: July 27, 2008
ARCHITECTURE
Lost in the New Beijing: The Old Neighborhood
By NICOLAI OUROUSSOFF
A construction boom tied to the Olympics is threatening two types of housing in China’s capital.

China’s Neighborhoods Face Change (this is a link to a slide show)
The ferocious building boom that has transformed Beijing into a modern metropolis has also turned many of its historical neighborhoods into rubble. Nicolai Ouroussoff reports.

Laugh for the Day. How many souvenirs did you bring home?

Copyright by  Cartoon Strip "Rhymes with Orange", on China souvenirs...



Monday, July 22, 2013

Random Thoughts, Some weeks after returning home...


Use of Language
I struggled to retain a few words of Chinese (I was not diligent in my preparations...).   And then, our guides, who changed nearly each day as we traveled from city to city, wanted to teach us a few words of their dialect, or the local dialect.  This was beyond my capability!  I would have loved to learn some more language, but my brain just couldn't hold any more...

Trip Photos
I took over 1,000 photos on the trip, all from my cell phone, so that you can manage your expectations about quality (though some of them are quite good).
I have sent a link to these photos on the web to all the travelers on the trip.  I haven't linked to them here, out of some concern about your privacy.  Since my photos are very informal, I didn't want to assume it would be OK to make them available to readers of this blog.  If you want access to them, I suggest you contact one of the travelers you know, or myself, and ask for the link.

Need for Guides
It was apparent to me that I would have been in sad shape without a Chinese speaking guide.  I could grasp only a few words of the language, and I could read nothing in Chinese.  And there was little written  material or signage in English, anywhere.  An occasional street sign was in English.  Menus, hotel A/C controls, museum signage, were almost entirely in Chinese.  It was a humbling feeling.

Rent a CAR?  No way! 
I would never attempt to drive in this country, even if I could rent a car (and I don't think I could..)

The Food - Plentiful, unusual, then becoming routine.
We were well fed.  The hotel breakfast buffets were generous, while often having foods not familiar to us.  Pastries were usually mediocre by my standards.  No coffee was served anywhere.  Hot water, warm milk, or hot tea were the drinks.
ROUND TABLES
The luncheons and dinners were almost always at a round table seating about 8 people, with a large Lazy Susan (revolving platform) in the middle.  We almost always had a 1 liter bottle or two of beer with the meals (included in the tour package) to be shared among the 8 of us at each table.
AMPLE
The food was always ample, or more so.  I don't think we ever ate it all.  Chicken and pork with rice were common in the East, with more mutton and noodles appearing as we moved west into more Muslim populated areas..  Steamed or fried whole fish were occasional treats, served whole, and we picked off a few bites of meat as the table rotated.
WHAT IS IT?
When we asked what something unidentifiable to us was, we sometimes got an answer, but the most frequent answer we got from Shudong was: "Remember, Chinese people eat everything that flies except airplanes, and everything with four legs except tables."   He said this enough times, that I began to take him seriously.
YOU DON'T WANT TO KNOW...
There was discussion about the quality of rat meat, and that the secret was to get rats who ate from good food sources (avoid sewer rats!)   So did we eat rat meat?  I don't know.
Once we were served a stir fried meat that looked a lot like chicken, if the chicken had been laid on a cutting board and chopped into bite sized pieces from the whole chicken.  Every bite had bone in it, that you just ate around.  I'm not at all sure it WAS chicken.
I think most of us just adopted this rule of thumb: If you see something you don't recognize, try it.  If you like it, eat more.  If you don't like it, don't eat more.  Simple enough...

WATER?
Because of unsafe water, we did not eat any fresh vegetables.  We only ate fruit that we could wash ourselves in known safe water (e.g. bottled).
Just about every lunch and dinner meal included a hot, broth like soup.  Usually just vegetable broth.
Food was delivered throughout the meal.  More came as we ate.  Plates of food were not replenished.  When an item was gone, that was all.  But we had lots of choices.  I would estimate that there were at least 8 or 10 choices of dishes at each meal.
The delivery of watermelon chunks told us that we now had all the food - it is the universal desert.

Tummy Distress?
Our very first guide in Beijing told us that her experience was that most touristas like us would get some minor stomach distress at about day 7 to 9 of the trip,  She did not know why this is true, but that was her experience.
Well, she was correct.  I would say that at least two-thirds of us did experience some distress, myself included, at about that point in the trip.  For most of us, it slowed us down a day or two.  For a few, they stayed back at the hotel for the day.  I skipped food for a day, and slept through one evenings activity and meal.
I will note that at about this time, our Uigyr guide Noor, in Urumqi, bought us all a fried treat from a street vendor, which he wanted us to have a chance to try.  The next day was when most of us had some distress.  Was it from the fried treat?  We'll never know.  But the timing is certainly suspicious.

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Clashes leave 21 dead, including 15 police, say Chinese state media. 26June2013

June 26, 2013 Turpan Violence (about 3 weeks after we visited Turpan)

Clashes leave 21 dead, including 15 police, say Chinese state media. The attack reportedly happens as police search some homes. But the Uyghur American Association says the lack of information makes details difficult to verify. Two men are later sentenced to death.
Source: Aljazeera

Sunday, June 2, 2013

Home again in Kansas City, 2June



Our home, the Sophian Plaza condos, is the building under the arch of the tree, left of center,  That's Henry Moore's "Sheep Piece" on the right, looking west from the south lawn of the Nelson Gallery.  You can just see a bit of one of Claes Oldenberg's "Shuttlecocks" through the trees in the center.
That's 47th Street (Emmanuel Cleaver Blvd) on the left.

And the mail awaits us!

Friday, May 31, 2013

YuYuan Garden in central Shanghai, 31May

Friday, 31 May.  In the gentle rain, we visited the magnificent YuYuan Garden in the heart of Shanghai.  Built about 400 years ago, by a private individual, it was just a glorious spot in the city.

The master's study
A typical "framed" view within the Garden
  


Many beautiful rocks throughout the Garden

Just a typical "street" underfoot in the garden.


A Garden gatepost - magnificent!




Yes, let's meet at Starbucks!

Some of our tour group.

Shanghai Museum, and the Bund, 31May2013

Shanghai Museum
We spent a few hours at the lovely Shanghai Museum.


Lots of young people asked to have photos taken with us.  One young girl latched onto tour member Birgit, and accompanied her for some time, while reading the English language signage to Birgit so that Birgit could help her with her English!
It appeared that they both had fun with this.  
Birgit is in the red top.


I actually purchased here a small, 8x10" painting of a fisherman that I like.  I think it will be a good souvenir hanging in my office at home.

The BUND:
We strolled on the Bund, for just an hour or so, in a gentle rain. The Bund is a waterfront area in central Shanghai. The area centers on a section of Zhongshan Road, which runs along the western bank of the Huangpu river. It is, in addition to a major tourist stop, a center of economic activity in China.
The BUND follows the near side of the Huangpu river
in the center of this photo.
The eastern side of the Huangpu river,
with ALL NEW construction since 1990!
It was all farmland before that time.



We couldn't see the top
of the famous sphere...

Photo
My wife Sharon, with umbrella!
This was our view on the foggy, rainy day when we visited.








Oh, yes.  Looking for an ATM!  Shanghai


Thursday, May 30, 2013

Fly Urumqi to Shanghai. 30May, Thursday

We had a bit of a schedule mix-up, and late flight change by China South airlines, so there was rather a mad scramble to get through the several layers of security getting out of the Urumqi airport  and on the way to Shanghai.  We made it by the skin of our teeth.  Our Uigyr guide Noor told us that the security in this airport is the tightest in the country, if not the world.  I gathered this is due to the ethnic tensions between this region and the Chinese government, but I'm not sure about this.

Scrambling for boarding passes.
Photo
The final security check (of four!).

It's a four hour flight, across the country from west (Urumqi) to east (Shanghai).

Photo
Meeting our Shanghai guide, Maggie.
Lodging in the  Xuhui International Executive Suites Shanghai
Xuhui International Executive Suites Shanghai Hotel

Malaysian family that I got to meet and
speak with in the hotel.
They had two sons with them, and
they all spoke some English.

I went for a stroll of several blocks on the street in front of the hotel in the evening, and was so overpowered by the sights and activities along the street, that I walked right by our hotel on my return. I became slightly disoriented, as I hadn't even been smart enough to pause and look at the front of our hotel before I walked away. The entry is actually off the street just a bit, with a low fence separating it from the sidewalk, so it wasn't hard to pass by.  The street was full of shops, of EVERY variety, vendors cooking on charcoal pots, children playing, lovers strolling, bicyclers, vehicles of every size, shape and purpose, etc, etc.

Street food: Shanghai

Street scene: Shanghai

Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Urumqi. Heavenly Lake. 29May, Wednesday. Traveler's Tummy arrives.

Urumqi.  Heavenly Lake. 29May, Wednesday.  Traveler's Tummy arrives.  

We lodged at the Bing Tuan Grand Hotel in Urumqi, near the grand international bazaar.  We had a fascinating (and difficult) time trying to buy a cold beer in the lobby bar.  Turns out, they had no cold beer, just room temp beer.  And the staff spoke no English (as we spoke no Turkic or Chinese).  Sign language wasn't quite enough.

The Bazaar was overwhelming to me (and I acknowledge that I am not much of a shopper).  Hundreds of booths, and tables, on multiple floors, of multiple buildings, and I didn't begin to see the total bazar.  And at every turn, vendors wanted your attention and wanted to negotiate.  I needed some free space to just browse, and ask my own questions.  And how would I carry this stuff home anyway?  

Heavenly Lake is at about 6,500 feet elevation, and was a 2.5 hour bus ride from Urumqi (on 3 buses - our tour bus, bus #1 inside the park, then bus #2 making the final winding approach to the lake.)

Most of our group (including myself) were dealing with some degree of intestinal distress by this point in the trip.  I ate no food this day.  I gave serious thought to whether I was wise to embark on a long bus ride.  I made it!  Once I got back to the hotel, about 4:30pm, I went to bed, and slept through dinner time.  Wise move.

Photo
The impressive entry gate to the bus terminal, enroute to Heavenly Lake.

Photo
A bit of the winding road to the lake.





We rode the tour boat around the lake.
About a 30 minute ride.



An example of one of several temples located
 on the hillsides around the lake.





Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Turpan. Grape Growing home visit - Raisins! 28May, Tuesday Depart for Urumqi. Grand Bazaar.

In Turpan, famous for it's grapes, we were able to visit a grape grower's home, which was a wonderful stop.  About 30% of their grape harvest is made into grapes, and about 60% into white wine.  Turpan supplies the entire country with grapes.  Turpan is rescued from its desert locale, which surrounds it, by the system of Karez (hand-dug water tunnels).

The grape growers garden, with a Karez channel at our feet.

A fine array of raisins, with fresh baked bread
(which was delicious).  Judy, John T, and Birgit.

Photo
The opportunity to
buy some raisins
(which many of us did).

















A grape drying room (in which raisins are made!).


Photo
A typical local "pick up truck".
We saw variations on this vehicle in very city.



Monday, May 27, 2013

Arrive Turpan. Donkey Carts. Monastery. Karez tour. 27May, Monday.

As we landed in the small airport in Turpan (Tulufan Airport), at mid-day, we discovered that we were the only passengers in the terminal. As I understood our guide, there are no flights to the east from Turpan. You can only fly west to Urumqi, 145 miles to the west. I haven't verified this, but it does make one curious about the politics and business of the Uigyr (~wegur) region.


The Tulufan Airport, near Turpan.


We lodged in the Tulufan Huozhou Hotel in Turpan.
Tulufan Houzhou Hotel.
Note that they advertise 24 hour hot water!
Turpan is an old city with a long history. Traces have been found of humans living there, dating as far back as 6,000 years ago. The city was known as Gushi in the Western Han Dynasty (206BC-24AD); and in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), it got its name Turpan, which means 'the lowest place' in the Uygur language and 'the fertile land' in Turki. Lying in the Turpan Basin, the elevation of most of the places in the area is below 500 meters (1,640 feet). Turpan is the city with the lowest elevation in China.
Occupying an area of just over 6,000 square miles, Turpan City Prefecture is located to the southeast of Urumqi, the capital city of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. The city belongs to Turpan Region together with Shanshan County and Tuokexun County. It has a population of 250,000, made up of 21 different nationalities. Among these the Uygurs account for over 70% of the total number.

The city, which is also known as Huo Zhou (a place as hot as fire), is the hottest place in China. The annual average temperature is 14C (57.2F). It is reckoned that there are 152 summer days on average, and 28 really broiling days with the temperature above 40C (104F). Although the high temperature can be oppressive people can also get some benefits from it. The abundant sunshine gives the melons and grapes ideal conditions to grow. The fruit here is widely known for its high sugar content, especially the grapes. The place is praised as the 'Hometown of Grapes' and the Grape Valley is a good place to enjoy the grapes of hundreds of varieties.

Aydingkol Lake, at the bottom of Turpan Basin, is the lowest point in the country of China (and third lowest in the world, after USA's Death Valley and the Dead Sea), and we saw this lake from a modest highway rest stop.
The white strip in the distance is the lake.
This is the tourist view of the salt lake.  The lack of amenities,
and the stack of used tires, paints the tourism scene!


(Some text courtesy of this tourism site.)


Donkey Carts: Apparently the donkey carts that we rode out in the desert as we visited the ancient mosque site are also used as taxis in the city, though I didn't witness this. They seemed quite unsafe to us out on the rough trail in the desert, but perhaps they'd be OK in the city.



The ancient mosque in the desert.

The infamous Donkey Cart.  Now picture this
 on deeply rutted road, with 10 people aboard..


The Karez Canals were a fascinating point on our tour of Turpan.

Karez systems are the crystallization of ancient people's diligence and intelligence. At its peak, this irrigation system exceeded 5,000 km (3,106 miles) and was also referred to as 'the underground Great Wall'. It is among the three ancient major irrigation projects with the other two being Ling Canal and Dujiangyan Irrigation Project.

Karez systems are the life source of Turpan. In a sense, without them, there would be no Turpan culture. According to records, the history of the karez in Xinjiang dates back to 103 B.C. Karezes have been found in Iran, the Sahara, etc., but the ones in Turpan are the most complete. Currently there are still over 400 systems.

Karez are very delicate irrigation systems made up of vertical wells, underground canals, above-ground canals and small reservoirs. Generally, a karez is 3 km (1.9 miles) with the longest being 20 to 30 km (12-19 miles) with several dozen vertical wells. Sometimes the number of vertical wells exceeds 300. Until today, the shortest karez found is only 30 meters (98 feet) long. The vertical wells are for ventilation, digging and maintenance of the karez. The bottoms of all the vertical wells are connected so that water can pass through. The underground canal is about 2 meters (6.5 feet) high and covered with earth to resist the heat. The surface canals, connected to the underground ones, are not more than 1 meter (3.2 feet) wide with trees planted on both sides to prevent evaporation.

Melting snow from the Tianshan Mountain is the water source of the karez. Water is collected by vertical wells and conducted by the underground canals to the oasis, where the water is held in the ground canals for irrigation. The vertical wells near the water source may be 100 meters (328 feet) deep while further downstream they are less than 10 meters (32.8 feet) deep.

Karez System is the 
underground irrigation system.
People use barrel to take out 
water from the Karez.

A karez reduces evaporation, avoids getting polluted and needs no other power equipment; it runs from high to low ground owing to gravity alone. Turban is the hottest place in China and the arid climate makes water all the more precious. A karez system helps to ideally solve this problem.





The Karez also functions as the natural air conditioner for the locals because they can sit in one while chatting or doing some chores. When exhausted during the scorching weather, sit in a karez, pick some grapes as they hang over the vertical wells and savour their taste, you will be thoroughly refreshed!

Sunday, May 26, 2013

The Singing Sand Dunes, Mogao Caves, and catching the Night Train. Dunhuang (26 May, Sunday)

The Singing Sand Dunes
When asked what are my most vivid memories of China, I am surprised to find myself answering "The Sand Dunes".  Did you ever see the 1960's classic movie "Lawrence of Arabia"?   Well, these dunes remind me of that movie.  The dunes are just magnificent to see.  Hundreds of feet high, constantly shifting in the winds, with a magnificent 2,000 year old oasis plopped down in the middle of them.

Another vivid memory, for contrast, is that of the hundreds and hundreds of high-rise condominiums or apartments we saw in every city we visited (with the possible exception of the oasis city of Turpan).  It was just beyond belief.  The NY Times article of June 16, 2013 describing China's plan to move 250,000,000 million people into cities over the next 12 to 15 years helps understand what we were seeing.

And - Yes, my very first camel ride!
John Blevins,  John Thomson and Shudong Chen,
mounted up, and ready to rumble...
They had hundreds of camels saddled up just for us tourists to ride up into the dunes.  Surprisingly, the ride was more comfortable than expected.  And the camels kneel down on their knees for our mounting and dismounting - just like in the movies...


Here's a view of the dunes as you approach from the city of Dunhuang.  If you look close, you can see little specks on the sand ridge just beyond the highway.  For scale, those are people on camels.
Photo courtesy of Wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sand_dunes_(1).jpg

And here's a photo of the Crescent Lake Oasis.  In the distance you can see the city of Dunhuang, which I presume developed as a result of the oasis, but I haven't done that homework yet..
Photo Courtesy of http://images.china.cn/attachement/jpg/site1007/20110817/000cf1a48f870fb5b9b34f.jpg

I purchased a book of photos titled "Entering Xinjiang" at one of the big shops on this day.  It includes a DVD video, but I've discovered I can't view it on my television, but only on our computer.

The Mogao Caves
These ancient tomb caves (over 1,000 of them) are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Located 25 kM outside Dunhuang.   Access to the sites are now tightly controlled and you must be led by their guide.  The caves are sealed to control humidity and to monitor CO2 levels (as generated by human visitors).  When the CO2 level gets too high, they close that cave to access for some period of time.
Each cave contains elaborate ritual figures and paintings used in reverence.

From wikipedia:

The Mogao Caves or Mogao Grottoes, also known as the Caves of the Thousand Buddhas form a system of 492 temples 25 km (16 mi) southeast of the center of Dunhuang, an oasis strategically located at a religious and cultural crossroads on the Silk Road, in Gansu province, China. The caves may also be known as the Dunhuang Caves, however, this term is also used to include other Buddhist cave sites in the Dunhuang area, such as the Western Thousand Buddha Caves, and the Yulin Caves farther away. The caves contain some of the finest examples of Buddhist art spanning a period of 1,000 years.[1] The first caves were dug out in 366 CE as places of Buddhist meditation and worship.[2]The Mogao Caves are the best known of the Chinese Buddhist grottoes and, along with Longmen Grottoes andYungang Grottoes, are one of the three famous ancient Buddhist sculptural sites of China.

An important cache of documents was discovered in 1900 in the so-called "Library Cave," which had been walled-up in the 11th century. The content of the library was dispersed around the world, and the largest collections are now found in Beijing, London, Paris and Berlin, and the International Dunhuang Project exists to coordinate and collect scholarly work on the Dunhuang manuscripts and other material. The caves themselves are now a popular tourist destination, with a number open for visiting.


A view of some of the Mogao caves from a distance.
(Wikipedia)

A closeup of the most elaborate of the tomb cave entrances.
(Wikipedia)

Saturday, May 25, 2013

Xian to Dunhuang, Rock Formations (Too Mucho Busso), Late to bed. 25May, Saturday

Breakfast Menu, Hotel, Xian, Saturday morning:
  • Fried egg (wait in line, cooked one at a time)
  • Rice with egg bits
  • Steamed bun with meat
  • Churro style fried bread, but without Mexican/Spanish sugar coating
  • Sponge cake
  • Small hard cookie, no topping.
  • Noodles with "tread" design on them
  • Green veggies with noodles
  • Sprouts and other condiment type toppings
  • Small radishes? (about 1" long, look like grub worms...but taste like radish)
  • Hot water and Hot milk are available for drinking

Departed for Xian airport at 9am, for a 12:35pm flight.  China Eastern airlines, which was just fine.  A fairly modern Airbus, and more comfortable than American.

Arrive Dunhuang about 3pm, after flying over some magnificent snow covered mountains (bigger than the Rocky Mountains I think).

Dunhuang airport arrival.



Lodged at the Dunhuang International hotel.  (The web site is all in Chinese, but Google's translation makes it mostly readable.)  Our schedule didn't allow time to check in before we began our evening travels, so off we went!
Dunhuang INternational hotel lobby.
Then, incredibly, we drive 2.5 hours by bus to see rock formations in the desert.
Just appreciating the desert scenery as
we drive to the Formations.



Here's the final approach to the formations.

Judy and Shudong, in the wind,
at the formations.









The Formations from a quarter mile away.

Sharon at the Formations.
















We visit the formations for about an hour and then drive 2.5 hours back to the city and the Dunhuang International Hotel. 
FYI: Too Mucho Busso is my own Chinese dialect for "too much time on the bus"...

Judy and Gerry, after lunch, 
someplace in a desert oasis. 

We finally arrive at the hotel about 11:30pm!  Then, No wifi in hotel, and too little water in the hotel room,  after no water on the bus!  Serious problem...

Bought a beer at dinner for 10 Yuan, and then bottled water at the hotel for 12 Yuan, so we could get some liquid.


Here's a bit of toilet humor that 
I saw hanging over a urinal in the airport. 

And now, for the men only: